It was England in September 1989 during a Junior year abroad at The University of Reading that I fell in love for the first time (real mature love) with food. Not just any food, but The Codfather of British food, fish and chips. In the UK, fish and chips are an institution and undeniably the most popular takeaway meal and a cultural symbol. My first meal was at a neighborhood fish and chips shop known as a “chippy,” and from then on, we were serendipitously coupled.
Fish and chips are as British an institution as the Queen, and one of the few dishes that the UK might be recognized for around the world. Sitting on a bench, eating that deep-fried delicious goodness out of yesterday’s newspaper with a wooden fork by the seaside on a cold blustery day is one of those quintessentially British images that define a nation.
Fish and chips has always been regarded as working-class food. It gained its popularity in the industrial heartlands of Britain, and during WWII, the dish was deemed so important to morale, it was not rationed, unlike many other staples. This doughty, humble meal seems perfectly to encapsulate the country’s national spirit. It did so, literally, during the D-Day landings in 1944. British paratroopers needed a foolproof code that would identify friend or foe. What could have been better, or more infallible, than ‘fish’ answered by ‘chips’?
Walk London’s cobblestoned streets, cross centuries-old bridges and amble through celebrated covered markets – before the morning drizzle has given way to afternoon sun, and history will have unfolded before you. More than just postcard images, the city’s smoking chimney stacks, ubiquitous black cabs and red double-decker buses all have long and tangled stories that are deeply embedded in London’s traditions. To dig into fish and chips is much more than ticking off a list of things one must do in London; it is to engage in a national treasure.
As iconic as the dish its, it’s the condiments that are really crucial. Salt and vinegar go together in the British psyche, not so much like horse and carriage, but like fish and chips. While “Revenge is a dish best served cold,” it would be criminal to serve this meal other than freshly cooked, piping hot, smothered in salt and soused with vinegar, and lined with the latest headline. That fateful first day The Codfather made me an offer I couldn’t refuse, and I will be loyal to him forever. Luca Brasi may sleep with the fishes, but I'd rather eat them.
My Home Away From Home 1989-1990
British Fish and Chips
INGREDIENTS
Fish
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 cups light beer, very cool
extra flour for dredging, chilled
1 1/2 pounds fresh cod, haddock or other firm-fleshed white fish, cut into 4 pieces
Canola oil for frying
Chips
3 large Russet potatoes or other high starch/low moisture potato, peeled, sliced and put in a large bowl of cold water for 2 hours, dry completely before frying
salt for sprinkling
oil for frying
Quality British Malt Vinegar for serving
INSTRUCTIONS
For or the Chips: Heat the oven to 200 F.
Heat the oil in a deep fryer or a large heavy pan or Dutch oven until the temperature reaches over high heat until it reaches 325 degrees F (use a instant-read thermometer).
Thoroughly drain the sliced potatoes and blot them with paper towels to remove excess water. Once the oil is 325 F carefully fry the potatoes in small batches to avoid overcrowding and fry for 2-3 minutes until pale and softened. Use a slotted spoon to remove them from the oil and let them cool to room temperature.
Increase the temperature to 375 degrees F. Carefully add the fries again, frying in small batches, until they are golden brown and crispy, another 2-3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, place them on a baking sheet or roasting rack, sprinkle with salt while they're still very hot, and place them in the warmed oven while you're frying the fish.
For the Fish: Combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a large flat bowl. Pour in the cold beer and whisk until smooth (use the batter immediately, do not let it rest for a while). In another large flat bowl add some extra flour for dredging.
Blot the fish with paper towels to remove excess moisture. Thoroughly dredge all sides of the fish in the flour and shake off the excess.
Dip the fish into the beer batter to thoroughly coat all sides, allowing some of the excess batter to drip off (but not too much!)
For Frying the Fish: You can either use a deep fryer or you can use a medium-sized skillet and fill it with oil to a depth of about an inch.
Heat the oil to between 350 F and 375 F. Carefully drop the fish into the oil.
Fry the fish in the deep fryer for 5-8 minutes or until nicely golden. If using a frying pan fry the fish for about 2 minutes on each side or until nicely golden. Remove the fish with a slotted spoon, letting the oil drop off, then place the fried fish on a wire rack for a few seconds and serve immediately. (If you wait too long to serve the batter will lose its crispiness.) Don't forget to get all the scraps out of the oil; they are the best part!
